Category Archives: Out & About

Grizzly Bear at the Bus Stop

Backpack, check. Coat, check, lunch, check. Bear spray….. check. With the arrival of autumn comes the return of morning walks to the bus with young George, apples ripening on the tree and the prospect of coming face to face with one of North America’s largest carnivores. The “nightly news” of Gardiner, Montana – reports via footage from backyard trail cameras and Facebook, that one or more grizzlies has been making the rounds through the backyards and streets of town in search of laden apples trees and improperly secured garbage.

Footage compliments of K. Short

Our neighbors reported signs of a grizzly in their yard just recently. And as we make that early morning walk along the gravel drive to the bus stop, the bears are returning to wooded areas to settle down after a night on the town. In late fall means hyperphagia – a bear’s version of binge eating – to put on as much weight as possible before a long winter hibernation. They roam the landscape like vacuum cleaners with voracious appetites, searching for food that will help them pack on the pounds. For some of the ecosystem’s grizzlies, this means scavenging carcasses or foraging at high elevations for white-bark pine nuts and  the ‘butterballs’ of bear cuisine – army cutworm moths – living packets of fat and protein which take refuge in the millions beneath the rocks on the high rocky slopes of the Gallatin and Absaroka mountains. But each year, at the tail end of apple harvest season, a handful of bears venture down from the mountains to roam the backyards and streets of Gardiner in search of an easy meal; apples, garbage, dog food, bird feeders. We watch daily for the tell-tale signs; big piles of orange scat filled with apple skins, and limbs ripped from the unlucky trees. We try to be good neighbors; picking apples early, collecting fallen ones from the ground, and carefully storing our trash and any other attractants in hopes of avoiding a surprise encounter. Even so, it’s nearly impossible to remove everything. Habit, fueled by flawless memories and an uncanny sense of timing, lead them back to years-old feeding sites in hopes of just one more reward.

So, with a slight tingle on the backs, we walk the 200 yards to the bus stop, past the apple grove, wondering what may be bedded in the sage or aspens along the way. Some might think we’re crazy, but we wouldn’t trade it for anything. What would this world be without things that make us feel small, inadequate or outright terrified at times? Grizzlies are the very essence of what lies in the heart of these mountains – wildness. Whether it’s bison in the backyard or grizzlies at the bus stop, to live in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem is to live a wild life.

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As always, the bear has the last word.

Faces in the Herd

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“…all of them (bison) are the same, they’re everywhere, you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all” – Roadside Tourist in Yellowstone.

In contrast to the quote above, nothing could be further from the truth when in the presence of the diversity and beauty of nature. It is seldom that we truly appreciate the power of the individual to move and shape us. You only have to start drawing or modeling a bison to realize that one cow bison cannot substitute for another – they are not carbon copy animals milling about in a neat, uniformly responsive herds. They have different hairdos, wildly divergent horn features, body types, behaviors, etc, and why not? These wild animals, of all species, are as uniquely individual as we are.

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Sketching “Godzilla,” from a safe perch atop my vehicle. Photo by Brad Orsted.

Individual personality in people is a ‘given,’ but in my world, this clearly applies to wild animals as well. Some may only be known for a few hours, maybe a day, while others have shared their entire lives with those humans willing enough to be patient and observe. Here in Yellowstone this means animals like grizzly bears 264, 211 (aka “Scarface”), “Quad Mom,” and black bear “Roosy”, Bull elk #10, #6, or “Roman”, wolves 21M, 42F, 830 (aka, the “’06 Female”), 113M, 302M, #7F, the sandhill crane “Bent Toe,” and so many other unmarked bison, bighorn sheep, osprey, pronghorn, peregrine falcons, coyotes, bald eagles, etcetera. This is one of the great gifts that Yellowstone offers – a chance to connect with individuals from another

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A good, old friend – Bull #10. We knew him for many years and got to watch him across great swaths of the year from growing his antlers (left) in May to reclining in all his majesty in early September.

species. They teach us about the world as seen through their eyes, smelled through their nostrils, heard through their ears and along the way, display their own brand of style, joy, displeasure, compassion, attitude, loyalty, fortitude, charm, bravery… and in turn, come to give us insights about our own lives. I think Henry Beston stated it well when he wrote:

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“Scarface” was a famous grizzly bear that roamed the Yellowstone Ecosystem far and wide for 25 years. Some believed him to have teleportation powers as he seemed be able to be in one corner of the Park one day and then in a completely different one the next. He regularly criss-crossed the roads and lent himself to many a photograph. Like other ‘regulars’ and residents, I knew “Scarface” well and hardly needed to see his facial scar or ‘lop-ear’ to recognize this old friend. These small models done of him are tributes to his “Veteran Traveler” status (left) and his seeming thoughtful and complicit mingling with the public in “Lamar Contemplation” (right).

“We need another and a wiser and perhaps a more mystical concept of animals. Remote from universal nature, and living by complicated artifice, man in civilization surveys the creature through the glass of his knowledge and sees thereby a feather magnified and the whole image in distortion. We patronize them for their incompleteness, for their tragic fate of having taken form so far below ourselves. And therein we err, and greatly err. For the animal shall not be measured by man. In a world older and more complete than ours they move finished and complete, gifted with extensions of the senses we have lost or never attained, living by voices we shall never hear. They are not brethren, they are not underlings; they are other nations, caught with ourselves in the net of life and time, fellow prisoners of the splendour and travail of the earth.” 

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Clockwise from top-left: “The White Lady” alpha female of the Yellowstone Canyon Pack, a resident bull bison, “Like A Rock” that I had the pleasure to knowing one spring, “Brutus,” the star of Montana Grizzly Encounter’s education center near Bozeman, Montana, the “’06 Female” aka 832F alpha female of the Lamar Canyon Wolf Pack, “The Matriarch” bison who led a small band of younger bison near our house one winter, “Something in the Air,” of a well known female grizzly from the Fishing Bridge area of Yellowstone and “Yoga Bear” observed one late autumn following wolf packs and taking their kills through Christmas time and almost into New Years before denning.

 

As a scientist, I was trained tot study animals without anthropomorphizing (attributing human characteristics to animals). As an artist however, I find that anthropomorphizing is a powerful, if not essential tool for understanding the possibilities in  wild creatures and ourselves. To me, studying these old friends helps to go beyond the field guide, or surface-level view, as a way to see the world from a particular animal’s unique perspective. The more I study these animals the more I realize there is to learn…

 

 

 

Bison on My Mind

electric bisonDespite having spent hundreds of hours watching bison, I never tire of observing them. Where others may see a docile, lumbering animal in a slow-moving herd, I see a deep landscape of gesture nuance of form and individual character. As I begin work on a new bison piece, I find myself yet again, with sketchbook and pen in hand.

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There is always more to learn. The bison are different today than they will be tomorrow, or in a month. Today, their heads are down, working to grasp the barely emerging nubs of grass coming up amid fickle spring weather. A month from now, the hunger-sharp hip bones of the winter weary cows will begin to round out, and the greening fields will be littered with rusty-red calves full of life and energy. The bison will be different yet again in late summer, when the drama of the rut signals the beginning of another cycle.
Bison possess a lot more depth and beauty than they’re afforded when most people observe them, a perfect metaphor for so many things we take for granted. Showing the capacity of an animal – like a bison – to have not only individual physical traits, but innate fears, desires, preferences, makes them all the more fascinating and familiar.  I feel the artist’s job is to reveal the overlooked magic in the ‘every day’ things of life. And so I am here again with bison, watching, observing, modeling, drawing – finding a way to communicate what I see in these remarkable animals.
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        gost test

Art of the Carcass

White Lady detailThis time of year in Yellowstone, the margin between life and death is thin. Rarely are the relationships between animals and the landscape more evident than in late winter, when the contrast between hunter and hunted, between survival and… not, is stark.  We have much to witness, and a great deal to learn.

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Field sketches & measurements of a bull elk carcass (2 days post-mortem).

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Field sketch of bison carcass 10 days after death (from February 11, 2007)

Observe a carcass scene and you begin to realize the complex interactions at play. The hierarchy at a carcass is well understood by those in attendance, played out between dominant and submissive, aged and youthful, resident and itinerant. Among coyotes, the ‘boss’ displays a fierce open-mouthed “alligator- gape” posture to all competitors. Yet, it is the coyote that sits on the periphery until the wolves are finished eating. Ravens show their high rank by strutting with head feathers raised and fluffy flanks. Nothing is random; the actions of wild creatures – and humans – have both causes and consequences.

The first grizzly bear of the year comes in for his share – and everyone steps aside…  One gesture by a singe animal can change the entire dynamic of the carcass scene; similarly, the actions of we humans have a ripple effect on the environment. My job as an artist is to divine truths about the natural world as a way to find our place within it. Hence, I become a student of nuances in animal behavior in order to convey an emotional landscape, and connect the human world to the animal world.

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Clockwise from top-left: “The Matriarch” – cow bison, “Active Mind” – common raven, “Seat of Power” – bedded grizzly bear and “Lamar Valley Jazz” – coyote trio (the latter edition is sold out)

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Wolf pup feeding on bull elk carcass

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Sketch from life of the Druid Wolf Pack in Lamar Valley feeding on a bison carcass on 5/16/02.

“The White Lady,” (pictured at top) to me is not simply a wolf, or a bronze, but a visual expression of something universal, the weight of her responsibilities as an alpha perhaps, an animal to whom a carcass represents the margin between life and death for her pack. “The Matriarch” (shown in upper left of sculpture montage) represents the passing of wisdom between generations; a lifetime of knowledge that guides the survival of the herd on their quest to avoid becoming carcasses themselves.

For the reader: It is seldom that one can observe a carcass at close range here in Yellowstone Park. Kills often happen away from the roads, and unlike other places such as in Africa, the presence of the observer would disrupt the entire dynamic of the animal interactions. As a result, distance viewing through a spotting scope is a must and only after the predators and scavengers have had their fill, i.e. consumed every bit of digestible, and even some non-digestible, matter can the artist or curious Park visitor safely and ethically go in and see what is left. FYI, an adult elk killed by wolves will largely be consumed in one day, and almost entirely by the second day, bison, being much larger, can last a week or more.

 

 

It’s Always Worth It

The bear was large, its coat a shimmering deep brown tinged with silver. Laying on its belly, leg haunch in the air, it was chewing on the last remains of an elk at a bend in the river. On our way “up the hill” to Mammoth for a regular weeknight engagement, we spotted a grizzly just 100 yards off the road along the Gardner River, and stopped to take advantage of the rare chance to see a bear up close.

We planned to look for the bear the next morning, but the weather was dark and damp, and we had heard the bear was nowhere to be seen. “Let’s go anyway”, George said, because it’s always worth it – something we often tell ourselves when we just don’t feel like getting up early, or heading our for a hike, whatever. The moment we parked the truck and got out, Jenny whispered “George, look up!” There, perched on the hill ten yards above us, was a coyote. We watched quietly as it eyed us for a few moments before trotting nonchalantly down the game trail, across the bridge and off the other side of the road. Atop a higher vantage point dotted with rabbitbrush and sage, the heavy, damp chill enveloped us like a soggy sweater. Suddenly a coyote yipped, then more answered. We looked back at the carcass and they materialized like ghosts: one, two, three – no four! coyotes, their full coats, rusty ears and black tipped tails vivid in the muted light. We watched as they group-howled, heads reared back in full voice. Eventually, they scent marked together, and then trotted on up a hill across the river.

Eyes are everywhere in Yellowstone, and on the ridge farther above us, a lone elk peeked its head over. Soon, another, then another looked down upon us. A sharp shinned hawk soared overhead and perched in a nearby tree. No fewer than six bull elk were in view. We never did see the bear. But just by showing up we saw so much more. Yellowstone, once again, reminded us never to underestimate what even a few minutes outside can do. We were out for a grand total of 40 minutes. It was worth it.

Yellowstone: Last tour of the Season

tetonsQuick before the gates close! The seasonal closure of Yellowstone’s road system is upon us.  Jenny, young George and I took the opportunity to pick up and drop off some sculptures at Mountain Trails Gallery in Jackson, WY as our excuse to take a drive through the interior of our nation’s first national park before the land becomes shrouded in white. Each year the roads of the Park close, save the road out to Cooke City at the north-east entrance, in order to let the snow build up to the point of allowing travel by snowcoach or snowmobile. (Image above: the majestic Tetons reduced to their foothills by dramatic skies)

ofj&GcaseynavigatorOur last view of Old Faithful before the snow flies (above, left), Jenny and “G” aka “the peanut gallery” (top, right), Casey – the ‘perenial passenger’ (bottom, right) and Jasper – ‘the navigator’ (bottom, left)

Our together-ness is made all the more sweet by the extraordinary landscape that we share. The icing on the cake is the wild inhabitants along the way who give us an even deeper level of awareness.

teton1Teton Mountains from near Moran Junction.

mooseTwo bull moose near Moose Junction, appropriately enough.

Beauty Departed – A Magpie Funeral

magpieRecently, my morning walk with the dogs interrupted something quite profound, dare i say, sacred; a magpie funeral. Walking towards a small meadow I heard three-note calls in unison from 10-12 magpies. Not an unusual note pairing, but something in their voices was different, so I walked to the spot where the dogs had flushed the birds from the ground. There in the grass, wings out, a single stem of grass clenched in its beak, was a magpie elder – the extensive white in the wings feathers and long, resplendent tail indicative of its age and perhaps its profound meaning to the birds clustered around it.
Having seen funeral-like processions in other species, principally bison, its clear to me that animals have emotional lives and recognize the loss of their kin. This is an idea that continues to stick with me, and one I need to explore in clay – as much in a search for understanding – as for a record of the encounter.

Brookgreen Gardens & Cumberland Isl.

live oakTraveling has such a wonderful way of bringing us back to what is most important. We are just returned from two weeks on the east coast where we spent some time at Brookgreen Gardens, a sculpture garden and wildlife preserve in South Carolina and Cumberland Island National Sprim maneashore in Georgia. On Cumberland Island, we marveled at revelations and discoveries in every little nook and cranny, from the tree frogs hidden in a folded palmetto, the vastness of the ocean, unbelievably tiny hermit crabs, to the subtleties of a cuckoo call in the live oaks and countless other small yet significant discoveries. At Brookgreen Sculpture Gardens, we were struck by the beauty of art and gardens at the hand of man. This trip reminded us that beauty is where you look for it. Although we are regularly surrounded by stunning natural wonders at our home in Yellowstone – we were reminded that every place offers it’s own beauty and intrigue if you are willing to be present and seek it out. There is infinite beauty in wild places, as well as in human spaces – from the impossible complexity of a salt marsh to a marble bust at the Metropolitan. Pictured here: Above, top – Live oak tree, middle – thumbnail sketch of sculpture “Primitive Man & Serpent” by Roland Perry and notes on other artists, below – green tree frogs.

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Honoring the Ewe

The “clang, clang” of the lead ewe’s bell has rang in my ears through the studio window for far too many days and so it is today, my birthday, that I take some time to appreciate these ewes before the birthday of their new lambs.

IMGP9677bWire and wood form the spine and legs of the armature with some newspaper added in to take up the extra space.

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I have really grown to enjoy this water-based clay that hardens simply by drying in the open air. It does not require firing in a kill and therefore, is wonderful for doing  3-D sketches on site.

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My trusty field assistant returns from school to inspect his Papa’s progress on the sculpture after about an hour and a half’s work in the corral.

 

THE skull from the ‘Great Mollie’s Pack Bison Hunt’

IMGP8492bThis is THE skull! Exactly 619 days and 19 hours before this shot was taken, I and my “Wolves of Yellowstone Class” got to see this bison taken down by the Mollie’s wolf pack on one snowy February afternoon in 2012. On a recent hike with photographer friend Brad Orsted, we came upon this area of Lamar Valley where that exact hunt took place – AND it is the same one that I filmed and placed on YouTube (linked below)! As we walked into the area of the hunt, that day was the farthest thing from my mind, but when I looked around, my memory snapped to the fore. The dramatic scene that took place over a year and eight months ago, happened RIGHT HERE!

“Brad,” I said, “I think that bison’s bones from the wolf hunt should be right ahead of us somewhere here.” Lo and behold, there was the skull – mere yards from the final resting spot of that bison when those 19 wolves seized her.

When watching the film footage you will see the bison fleeing from the wolves and going up a trail on the background hills. Look closely and you will see, etched in the sod, those very same trails. In the film, I was watching from across the Valley at a distance of ~2 miles. One always come across bones and carcasses in Yellowstone and I always wonder “what was the story behind this one?” In this particular case, we know the exact cause of death, where, when, everything…

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Genesis of a New Sculpture Idea

History is replete with examples of inspiration in science & art coming from dreams, sounds in nature, things that children say, etc. Since the inspiration behind a work of art is always interesting to folks, here is an example of the circuitous lines of thinking that went into a recent sculpture. ¶On one particular morning I was out for a jog with the dogs, and after detouring around two large bull bison on the trail, we encountered a group of mule deer. The deer were visibly distressed by the sight of the dogs cactusin my mind immediately jumped to some of the research on Yellowstone wolves showing how the body gestures of wolves convey the seriousness of their hunting efforts to their prey. When wolves have zeroed in on a particular animal, their gait increases, their head is lowered and tail straightened out to the back, rather than up as their heads and tails are when searching out a prospective meal. With this in mind, I looked back at our female Labrador, Casey, who had a ‘hunting’ body posture as she was darting amongst the prickly pear cactus. I wondered if this was signaling to those deer what the wolves do during a chase? From there, my mind jumped to the fact that wolves and coyotes must get spines in their feet during some of these chases. This gave me the overwhelming feeling of empathy for them in that powerlessness state of not being able to tend to their own injuries, or not having people to care for them as our dogs do. We all know this feeling to a degree when we become injured or encounter things, people, situations in life that we cannot change. IMGP6959qTo fight them does no good, to complain often does even less – SO, I began thinking of a piece that spoke to that notion. Once I got home I made a quick sketch on paper (above) out of my head of the position our male Labrador takes when worrying his feet from cactus spines. I wanted to use those gestures as exemplified by a coyote as the subject to convey this idea. I later made this small wax study to test the idea in 3D (to the right & below). I soon felt that it needed something ‘more’ and the cactus (scaled to south Texas size as our cactus are quite small in Montana) seemed to balance the design nicely – as well as to lend context to the animal’s slightly unusual position.

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A Ribbon of Dawn

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Left the house before light this morning to simply ‘be’ – no agenda, no obligations – and maybe do some sketching if a motive struck me. I was greeted with this sweet ribbon of dawn as the sun illuminated the lateral drapery in the sky.

Snow Wolves at our Door

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Little George asked this morning, as the snow was coming down over northern Yellowstone, if the snow was “good and sticky for snow men?” With the temps creeping up toward 32F in late morning the answer became an emphatic “YES!” I looked at the mound of snow that had been plowed up on the edge of the driveway and thought it would be a perfect chance to do a quick, relatively large-scale study of a wolf sculpture idea… this is what we came up with…